Enhancing Lives Through Design & Project Management

A temporary, metal ramp works well for both short and long term access needs. This ramp can be easily reconfigured for use at a different residence.

What does a ramp at the front of your house tell everyone about you…is it identifying you as an easy “target” for a crime? When the need for a ramp arises, instead of placing a ramp at the front entrance door to the house, there are two alternate locations for a more concealed ramp placement.

If there is an attached garage, a ramp can be installed in the garage with direct access into the house. This option provides protection from the effects of rain, snow and ice. Placing the ramp in the garage is preferred by most individuals and, since it is protected from the weather elements, can also extend the longevity of the ramp and eliminate the need for regular maintenance to protect the wood.

The challenging part of a garage ramp design is that in order to achieve a safe slope (general guideline is that for every 1” in rise, there should be 12” of ramped surface, plus 5’x5’ minimum level landings at the top, bottom and each direction change), the length/size of the ramp can take up one entire parking stall, if not more It is important to determine if eliminating a parking stall is an option, or if it will be necessary to add an additional parking stall onto the garage.

If the garage is the preferred location for access into the home, and it is not possible to eliminate a parking stall, a vertical platform lift and landing may be an option as it may take up less square footage.

If there isn’t an attached garage, or it is not possible to provide access through the garage, a second location for ramp placement is on the back side of the house, entering the home through an existing patio/back door, or door not seen from the road. If an existing door is not provided, a new door can be easily added…possibly in a location where a window currently exists…or the ramp could tie into an emergency egress route (e.g.: from the accessible bedroom). By placing the ramp at the back of the home, the ramp is hidden from the street.

When constructing a ramp at the back of a home, keep in mind it will be necessary to provide a connecting sidewalk between the vehicle drop-off area and the ramp. This can also be an opportunity to create an exterior patio or deck in addition to the ramp, thereby providing “useable outdoor” space for the individual using the wheelchair.

Be aware of water drainage issues from the roof so the new sidewalk and ramp are not a “pooling” site for water drainage creating a slippery situation. Water can be routed under the sidewalk by providing a “sleeve” for the down spout or through a grate placed in the walkway creating a “trough drain”.

Additional lighting may be necessary along the sidewalk and ramp, and at the door landing area. Motion sensor lights are a convenient option.

As a last resort, if the only place to construct a ramp is at the front entrance, there are ways to “disguise” it and visually connect it or blend the ramp in to the home by using similar architectural elements and appropriate landscaping. By doing so, you can make the ramp “disappear” and in some cases actually add “curb appeal”.

Contributed by:
Angela Heitzman, MA, CRC, CLCP, MSCC
Heitzman Rehabilitation, LLC
Jodi was a high school teacher in rural Minnesota at the time of her motor vehicle collision in 2009. While driving down the highway Jodi’s car was broadsided on the passenger side by a semi truck as it crossed the highway. Jodi had to be extricated from her vehicle and air-lifted to the nearest trauma center where work began to save her crushed right ankle and foot. After several unsuccessful surgeries, the decision was made to amputate her leg. Because Jodi lived alone in an old, inaccessible farm house, it was necessary for her to move in temporarily with her sister and her family. The loss of her leg and the dependence that it engendered was a challenge for this independent woman.

When Jodi’s attorney referred her to Heitzman Rehabilitation for development of a Life Care Plan it became clear that one of the more important aspects of the plan would be to return Jodi to a home of her own, where she could live independently. The services of Accessibility Design were retained to develop options for either purchasing and remodeling an existing home or building a new home that would accommodate a wheelchair.

Appropriate housing is one piece of a life care plan. A life care plan addresses all aspects of care, including therapies, routine medical care, labs, radiology, surgeries, equipment, supplies, medications, mobility needs, transportation, supportive care, housing, health maintenance and educational and vocational services. In Jodi’s case, future needs include items such as prostheses, walking aids, manual wheelchair, physical therapy, and disability adjustment counseling. The plan is meant to be a living document, flexible enough to change with the individual’s current condition/status, and grounded in sound medical practice.

• To identify future care needs and provide a blueprint for those needs
• To determine anticipated life-long costs for assistance in settling a claim
• To educate the injured or ill person regarding steps necessary to maintain health and avoid complications
• To use cost information in setting claim reserves or guiding implementation of Special Needs Trust

In the development of a life care plan the planner will review medical records; interview the individual and her/his family and caregivers; contact treating health care providers or retained medical experts to verify needs; identify items/services the person will likely need; research costs of services, equipment, procedures, medications, and supplies, along with frequency, duration and replacement rates; conduct medical research including review of clinical practice guidelines, standards of care, and best practices; and develop an individualized plan that will help minimize health complications. Each life care plan is tailored to a specific individual. Life care plans are meant to be objective; the plan should provide for the care necessary to allow the person to return to a productive, safe, and complication-free life.

Entrance is covered for protection from weather elements. Doorway is wheelchair accessible with zero-step entrance.

After you retire, have you every thought about selling your home in the city and moving to the “peace and solitude” of your weekend retreat? If so, you may be planning on remodeling or updating your property to provide the “comforts of home” and create a gathering place for all generations of your family to foster fond memories.

In doing so, this is a great opportunity to incorporate basic design concepts and “fine tuning” to address any future mobility or aging issue of yours or your guests.

Start by designating one entrance as a primary, future, accessible entrance. If you have a stoop or deck, construct the level landing at the door so it is the same height as the threshold. The size of this platform should be a minimum 5 feet by 5 feet … that would allow future installation of a ramp off of it if needed. Remember to provide the same minimum 5 feet by 5 feet of clearance on the interior side of the door as well … so as to have ample floor space on both sides of the door to enter and exit your home comfortably. A “covered” entry is preferred so the entrance is protected from rain … and snow, if you are in a colder climate.

Eliminate the need to rely on steps when planning the interior. Having one bedroom and bathroom on the same level as the kitchen and living area is ideal. These rooms should be located on the same level as the accessible entrance. You may also want to consider incorporating the beginnings of an accessible “egress route” disguised as a deck off the bedroom in which a ramp can be easily attached onto it in the future.

Doors that are relocated or replaced should be widened to allow installation of a 36 inch door … or consider installation of French doors, which can create a wider opening when both doors are open.

Before installing drywall or wall tile in bathrooms, reinforce all walls surrounding the toilet, bathtub and/or shower to provide a proper surface for future installation of grab bars. The preferred method would be to install marine grade plywood over the wall studs extending the full height and width of walls surrounding these fixtures. This will allow great flexibility down the road if grab bars are needed.

If you are considering replacing the toilet, install a toilet with a taller seat surface. All of the major plumbing manufactures offer a residential model that provides a higher toilet seat … but it still looks like a standard residential toilet.

When reconfiguring bathroom and kitchen areas, provide a minimum 30”x48” clear floor space centered in front of toilets, sinks, tub/shower, and appliances. Often times, when creating an accessible bathroom or kitchen, open knee space below counters is desired for seated use at a vanity, sink, cook-top and work area. If you would rather wait on this access feature…at least install the floor material under cabinets so you don’t have to replace the flooring later when modifying cabinetry. Installing a sink and countertop over a base cabinet…which could be removed at a later date … is also another option. Providing a large mirror that extends to the backsplash can be done now with little additional expense allowing use when standing or sitting.

Avoid luxury sized whirlpool tubs as they are more difficult to get in and out of. A standard bathtub is easier to get in and out of, and if needed, can accommodate a bench seat and hand-held shower sprayer at such time getting into the tub is difficult and reach ranges are limited. Installation of a shower unit without a “curb” is the most flexible solution unless major remodeling is to take place, but we suggest installing them into a bathroom with tile floor instead of vinyl flooring. Avoid shower units with doors as they are typically too narrow to get into easily if you have any mobility restrictions. Instead use a weighted shower curtain at the entrance and install the curtain rod a few inches inside the shower to ensure that the curtain drips inside the shower.

If ordering new kitchen cabinets, incorporate pull out shelves in base cabinets…and attempt to incorporate a pantry. Pull out cutting boards are useful as they can provide an accessible work surface in the event you need to sit while preparing a meal or, provide open knee space below one section of counter. Select “D” shaped cabinet pulls for cabinet doors and drawers as they are easier to use in the event you loose some of your grasping ability, e.g. arthritis.

Any new faucet or door hardware should allow lever operation as they are easier to operate, especially if you have limited strength or dexterity.

Firm floor surfaces such as laminate, low pile carpet, tile and hardwood are easier to maneuver over …and are more durable. The transition from one floor surface to another should be neutral with no abrupt rise. This will eliminate potential tripping issues.

These tips should give you a starting point in assessing your remodeling options. During this planning stage, visit a variety of manufacturer showrooms to see the assortment of options open to you that will make your cabin “home sweet home”.

Today marks the 20th Anniversary of the Americans with Disabilities Act that was signed into law on July 26, 1990, by President George H. W. Bush. In realty it’s a civil rights law that prohibits, under certain circumstances, discrimination based on disability.

The official ADA has 5 Titles that cover employment, public entities and public transportation, public accommodations and commercial facilities, telecommunications, and miscellaneous provisions. According to a 2005 report by the Census Bureau counts 54 million disabled people in the United States.

We at Accessibility Design continue to work to improving the lives of all disabled.  Contact us if you want more information on our solutions and to find out how we can help you.